Chanel’s artistic director Virginie Viard is departing from the brand, Chanel announced on Thursday, sparking speculation about who might fill one of the most sought-after positions in the fashion world.
Chanel confirmed the transition, initially reported by the fashion news website Business of Fashion, with a statement saying, “A new chapter is opening for Chanel Mode.”
The luxury label, renowned for its tweed jackets, quilted handbags with double-C logos, and No. 5 perfume, did not disclose a successor but expressed gratitude for Viard’s “rich collaboration of five years.”
Viard, 62, had been with Chanel for nearly three decades, working alongside Karl Lagerfeld before succeeding him in 2019 following his death.
Known for her relaxed silhouettes with an Eighties influence, Viard adopted a more understated approach compared to Lagerfeld, who was famous for his elaborate runway sets, including a rocket ship and an indoor waterfall.
Her departure comes as the fashion industry experiences slower growth and several other brands, such as Kering-owned Gucci, Valentino, and Burberry, seek new creative directions to boost sales.
The post-COVID fashion boom, driven by pent-up demand, has waned as consumers cut back on spending due to the rising cost of living.
Chanel’s teams will ensure “continuity” of the collections during this interim period, and the brand is set to present its fall-winter haute couture show for 2024/2025 on June 25 in Paris.
Speculation about a new designer at Chanel has been ongoing, with recent rumors mentioning industry figures such as former Gucci designer Alessandro Michele, who has since joined Valentino.
Chanel’s Chief Executive Leena Nair had previously dismissed such rumors, highlighting that Viard had overseen significant growth in ready-to-wear fashion sales, which have more than doubled since 2018.
Chanel reported a 16% increase in sales last year, reaching nearly $20 billion. This growth, while slower than smaller rival Hermes, which saw a 21% increase, was faster than LVMH’s fashion and leather goods division, which grew by 14%.
Chanel, the world’s second-largest luxury label after LVMH’s Louis Vuitton, is owned by French billionaire brothers Alain and Gerard Wertheimer.
